12-14
We so enjoyed Chin, Judi and Marny at the Mai Rood Resort that we dawdled over a graciously served breakfast. It was hot and humid as we approached the border. Stamped out of Thailand easily and then pay too much for a 30 day Cambodia Visa. We speak to other foreign visitors: at least they are charging all of us about $40 to enter! Chin told us to check into the Asea Hotel to wait for tomorrow’s boat to Sihanoukville. Many touts are trying to help us! One even seats himself at our lunch table. Cambodia already is different from Thailand as they scrape the litter from the previous diners onto the floor to clear the table for us! There is loads of trash and many aggressive touts. Money is confusing. Our poor Lonely Planet Guide book said no ATM’s – only Thai Baht. So we loaded up before we left Thailand. We are here; they don’t want Baht and there are ATM’s.
The roads from Thailand are smooth black top with a good berm. As we entered Cambodia the roads change to poorly surfaced concrete, very rough and in places broken up and we now seem to be driving on the right side of the road. In towns it is a free-for-all. No traffic signs or signals. Traffic is going every which way. It is unnerving. At night I notice that there are few if any street lights, so riding at night is a No No.
There is little depression left in the mattress by my knee and my elbow. It is foam rather than the innerspring covered by wood (?) used in Thailand. The people are used to sleeping on a mat on the floor so the beds replicate that situation. At least we don’t sink into the middle as we did in the beds of Latin America.
12-15
The ferry boat to Sihanoukville from a distance looks like a low slung, narrow French river boat: fiber glass, old and beat up. It carries no cars, just people; supplies loaded all over. Rather than sit in the enclosed hull, we chose to squat/lie down on the roof for the four hour trip which baked us. We burned a good deep red while we listen to the Ipod and talked to other travelers. We happened to sit next to a young Belgian gal, Leen, also traveling by bicycle. She had traveled through China, Nepal and Tibet and had good recent information on travel conditions. She loved Lasha; also was able to buy used camping equipment and cold weather gear; sounds good for us.
The hotel we headed for was full, so we chose a guest house next door. Rooms are running $15 US with A/C and cable TV, clean and neat. Breakfast is not included.
12-16
Food here is not as spicy, but just as good if not better than in Thailand. A can of beer is $1US and lunch and dinner in the area of $2-$4US. We are eating at a small open air place just down from our room. So far we have been delighted with all three meals there. Coffee is drip into your cup: strong, hot and thick. I had two.
Today is a shady beach day: clear and hot; water warm and filled with Khmers on this Sunday. We are ensconced in beach bucket lounge chairs and are being hawked by beach vendors. We decided earlier that we would buy bracelets and were surrounded by a hoard of children. We ended up with twelve-year-old Jenna, her brother and mother all selling us stuff. I now have two bracelets; one with ART on it that Jenna made at our table. We learned from Jenna about her school and learning English. She wants to be a tour guide. She and Judee chattered while she wove my bracelet. Jenna was the consummate sales person for the family.
The mid-day heat gets oppressive. Judee is feeling sick. Riding should prove interesting. Distance on the map appears 100+ km between villages with possible overnight accommodations. Planning is next to impossible. So we will see!
12-19
We are definitely in Cambodia and things are different! Little houses on stilts make a border between the road and the rice fields. Small ponds are dug out front of many of the homes to collect water. The more affluent homes have wells. Water buffalo are used extensively and make their home in deep water holes, also in the yards. We hear two-stroke gas engines everywhere, powering 100’s of 12 volt batteries lined up around the “electric” stores. The hellos echo after us from the dozens of children shouting the greeting to us riding by on our unusual bicycle. Here, too, are many bicycles; ridden to and from school, work and play! But, none of us have the right of way.
This poor country has been at war and a target of take over for years: Thailand, Vietnam, Japanese, Chinese, Khmer Rouge and even the US released 100’s of mines here – many still live. The Cambodians have been war-free since only about 2000-2002. During the Pol Pot years many millions of Cambodians were slaughtered: the intellects, teachers, and leaders. There is a great hope and exhilaration in the people, making one feel that the country will once again prosper.
Bokor National Park is on top of the Elephant Mountains just west of Kampot and we signed up for a 4WD tour up a challenging dirt stream bed that used to be a road to visit the park. The French developed a resort, an elegant hill station in the 1920’s. The cool climate drew visitors to the casino and hotels atop the mountain. The Japanese, Khmer Rouge and Vietnamese laid waste to the area. Little remains but the skeletons: concrete hulls loom over the plateau and the vast views out to the sea islands. We jungle trekked through the dense foliage on our way back down. It was hot, sticky, steep and slippery. How could any army fight or move effectively through this mass of tangled greenery and we were on a cut trail!?
We picked up our truck ride again after 45 minutes that transported us to our sunset boat ride. We arrived at the river Tebk Chhou to board a long tail launch to propel us down river to Kampot. Our guide surprised us with cold beers for $1US; most of us partook of his offer. We arrived at the quay side as the sun dropped behind the mountain range. Judee and I headed off to a second dinner of Pork medallions in a thick local pepper sauce, mashed potatoes and veggies. A wonderful long day.
Vision to See
Faith to Believe
Courage to Do
Inscription from sundial in front of Union Station Los Angeles, CA
12-20
Today we rode through a picture postcard of Cambodia. Rice fields being harvested by hand, cut, baled and piled into carts for bulls to pull out of the field or taken out on a long “justice” pole over a farmers shoulders. The rice is removed from the shaft by beating it; sometimes on a table-like arrangement and also using a mechanized process. The rice is then set by the road on plastic to dry. Several times a day someone turns it by hand or rake. After drying, the hulls are removed by throwing it up; the dried hulls are blown away by the breeze. We saw one innovative family who had rigged up a fan and shook the rice gently from a basket, resulting in the rice falling into a pile and the hulls being blown away.
Several days ago we saw teams of water buffalo pulling five wagons upon which were constructed straw houses. Outside hung a variety of ceramic wares: cooking pots, spoons, strainers, etc. We had been flying downhill and did not stop for a photograph, figuring we would see more of these amazing Conestoga wagons of Cambodia. But, we have not. Instead we see motorcycles rigged in an assortment of ways to transport people, ice, and other goods. Vans are used in lieu of buses and are so overloaded, a dozen passengers sit on the roof! SUV’s roar by, taking the whole road as only the very self-important wealthy can do. There are carts pulled by Brahma bulls/cows, and a zillion bicycles. These come in several types and sizes, but most often are the standard Chinese built bicycle, one size fits all. Small children ride these standing up because they can not possibly reach the peddles if they sit on the seat. Most bicycles have more than one person, and motorbikes cart multitudes on each bike. And almost everyone smiles: all say Hello and the young adults, high school age Cambodians, flag us down to practice English as we all peddle along.
The heat makes days feel long. Food is usually noodles in broth or stir fried veggies with rice including a selection of mystery meats which we usually shift off to the side of our plate. This doesn’t provide much energy for our big American bodies. We are going to have to buy some snacks that are not rice-based to supplement our meals.
Cambodia is changing so rapidly. Our Rough Guide mentions few of the places we choose to stay. Everything is new! Rough roads that internet travelers have warned us about are now paved; towns that were basically dirt are paved and organized for tourists. But still we find, like Takeo tonight, the out of the way spots are cleaner and more fun but not really set up for the tourist trade with no restaurants, only street stalls, etc. The Cambodian people are so resilient and warm.
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