.4-10-2008

Yesterday’s test ride on Bici through the tight, chaotic streets of Hanoi was an adrenalin pumper! Art has nerves of steel, amazingly quick reflexes and as always, a photographic memory for streets and places. So as we rode out of Hanoi, we braved traffic (trucks, buses, cars, hundreds of motor scooters and bicycles) that howls, beeps, drives anywhere it wants to get where it is going – even if it means up the wrong side of the road, on the sidewalks, if necessary. The quick weaving in and out, stopping in front of other drivers without warning, u-turning, cutting off others to make a turn in a maze of narrow streets crowded with vendors carrying all their goods piled high over their shoulders, on their bicycles or motos! We both shook with adrenalin – fight or flight responses! After being stopped by the military and re-directed to a pedestrian bridge, our journey continued on Hwy 1 for a short bit and then we veered off onto hwy 5, an expressway with some areas providing a special protected lane for non-motorized traffic. That didn’t mean trucks waiting to go in the opposite direction or motos needing a short cut didn’t join us along with pony carts, wagons drawn by bison or buffalos, and many bicycles laden with everything from twenty foot long poles to piles of vegetables.

We reached our destination too early in the day and tried to get information on possible places to stay further on. No one speaks English! No One! Making the decision to press on, we took a side road up to #18 and Sao Do. Stopping at the crossroads for a coke, a Vietnamese gentleman greeted us and tried to explain he was a manager at some place near, that he had a lot of money and would like to buy us lunch. Since we had eaten only an hour before, he bought us cokes, sweet treats and water. Kindness is most of what we have encountered in Vietnam.

1. Bike lane out of Hanoi 2. Hauling Bamboo

Sao Do had not one, but several hotels and we chose one for $200,00Dong ($12.50 US). We want for nothing in Vietnamese establishments except clean sheets and pillowcases. I don’t believe these items are often washed – just straightened up between guests. Places catering to westerners/Europeans can’t get away with that. The windows and doors are wide open and the loveliest breeze is billowing the curtains. It is overcast, almost misty, but in the 80’s. Truck harms blare as background noise as we sink onto the bed for a bit of rest before attempting to find dinner. Baguettes are everywhere there are tourists – 5km out of those areas there is no western food – no Oreos, no eggs for breakfast, no cheese. We have seen dogs in cages for sale as food. One sign for a food stand pictured several types of snake. I’m not looking for meat here.

4-13

Ha Long Bay. Another UNESCO site of karsts formations spiking out of the quiet waters of the South China Sea: hundreds of these islands. We cruise about in a luxury junk with air conditioning, private bath staterooms complete with crisp white linens on downy bedding. This is truly a treat to join fifteen other guests on this trip for a day and night on the junk and then a day and night on Cat Ba Island. We were escorted through a cave every bit as interesting as Carlsbad Caverns, lit dramatically and paved with safety in mind for the many visitors who tread through this place everyday. Art stated that this site is probably the best developed tourist area we have seen in Asia. A little over the top, but delightful just the same.

Our bike ride to get into Bai Chay to meet the tour group took us up Rt 18. Soon after we turn east Judee called out about some trucks behind us. Much to our surprise one was a street cleaner which drenched our bottom half, leaving us dripping and with wet panniers. Further the water turned the coal dust distributed over the roadside to a rich black slurry, soon coating the packs as well as our legs. Eighty percent of Vietnam’s coal is produced in the area turning the surrounding towns into black shadow environments. All traffic is well covered also. We were very glad we have been wearing our face masks to cover our mouths and noses – the air quality is shocking. Soon on the horizon off to our right out over the rice fields, karsts mountains began to appear: dark bumps at first growing into impressive peaks thrusting out of the bay. This entire vista slightly shrouded by haze and mist - a very haunting sight indeed.

We rolled \into Ha Long City: really two towns across the bay from each other – Bai Chay and Hong Gai. We stayed in the former in a nice new hotel with eight stores served by elevator for $15 including a/c cable and slight view of the bay. The tourist harbor just 3 km from our hotel was a sight to behold: absolutely jammed with Junks of all sizes busily being tended by vendors in paddle boats and launches. This loading and unloading of hundreds of boats is organized mayhem. Buses, vans, motos, jamming the parking lot spills out onto the highway blocking all lanes, horns blaring and people bailing out and running in groups to catch their boat. This all takes place very morning from about 11am to 1pm by which time the harbor parking lot and streets are practically empty.

Did we enjoy ourselves and the trip? A definite yes! Scenery was outstanding, company of our fellow passengers enlightening with good exchange of travel experiences. On the down side there are too many cruise boats, the water is filled with trash and effluent, and the food was mediocre with drink prices way too high.

4-14

As we sit waiting to leave in the hydrofoil to the Chinese border, we reflect on our time in Vietnam. We laugh at the fairly constant power outages; the dishes washed in a dishpan at the front yard spigot even though there are ten bathrooms with sinks and tubs in the hotel/guest house; restaurant menus used as guides only since one gets served what the restaurant has, sometimes with little resemblance to what one ordered.

Our hydrofoil was old but serviceable as they strapped Bici outside. After an amazing two hour ride, half of it through astonishing karsts scenery we came to a halt far from shore. Transferred to a small tug-like boat, small groups of passengers were chugged closer to shore and again transferred yet again in smaller groups, only Art, I and Bici in row boat-sized speed boats for the final race over the sand flats to shore.

Everyone was whisked away by bus. We traveled into Mong Chay (about 15km) along a quaint road. We lunched in Mong Chay and proceeded to the border. Stamped out of Vietnam, we rode a long block and entered the modern border building belonging to China. Two guards became our personal aides, making certain we filled out the papers correctly; guided our big bike through the proper gates; and helped us unload all our gear to have it x-rayed upon entry. Our books were closely inspected, but all in all, China has been the most modern, friendly and most easily entered border crossing after Singapore!

We peddled into the clean, clean, wide city street of Dong Xing thoroughly amazed at the modern building, nicely displayed goods in hundreds of shops with anything and everything one could want. We settled in a hotel, showered and headed off to find a map for the next phase of our journey. With the Berlitz phrase book Betsy Jones sent us, we began negotiating China, a country with few English signs and fewer English speakers. A young man, along with many other friendly people, asked if we needed help and proceeded to take us all the way to the bus station where he knew there would be maps. We made our selections (all in Chinese) and our new friend tried to buy us waters!

Meals are not too hard to negotiate as long as we like noodles. We did find a K>C knock-off where we dined.

4-15

Today’s ride took us out of town on a wide divided highway with four lanes and a bike lane in each direction. The weather is overcast but humid and warm. After a while we found a smaller road going in our direction and delightedly followed it through the agricultural hills and valleys. Except for a few exceptions, the roadsides are so clean with blooming trees and bushes scenting the air. Is this really Asia?

We arrived about 4pm and got settled into our $100 Yuan ($14 US) room. The hotels in this price range are comfy with a/c, TV, reading lights and western bath facilities and many little extras like tooth brushes, combs, slippers, etc. We also learned this morning that we are in a new time zone! Thank goodness, since I have been waking with the light before 5am! Restaurants don’t seem to open before 9. We have checked out a bakery that looks like it will serve coffee, too, that opens at 6:30 tomorrow.

We are really enjoying the Chinese people. Many have some English skills and are willing to help us or wish to practice. Everyone wants to try “hello” or other words they know. When we respond, the laughter is instantaneous. Some people are merely curious. No one has really been aggressive, certainly not like in Vietnam and we’ve not felt cheated or charged more than locals. In fact, things here are great bargains.

[Note from Webguy Gary, no text yet for April 16 and 17, so we don't know yet about Alan.   The page may get updated.  

Judee has some worries about Chinese censorship, but as she and Art are well aware and I can testify from personal experience China has excellent internet facilities, and nothing here is going to alert the censors gbout Tibet, Falun Gong, or pre-Olympic controversies.]

April 16

1. First Day's ride in China 2. Mahjong 3. Rapidly expanding city, Dong Xing

April 17

1. Alan, daughter and father-in-law 2. Alan's morning class 3. Dance practice in the school's cave