10-15

It has been over a week since we were assaulted and robbed on the street. We are still quite shaky at night while walking in our neighborhood. Yesterday, another couple from our hostel while sitting at an outside restaurant were held at knife point and his professional camera bag and camera were taken and he was pushed to the ground. This did nothing but put us more on edge. We tried to take the bike for a spin yesterday, but were both so uncomfortable that we quickly returned to the hostel. Later in the afternoon we walked downtown for three hours of wandering and returned after dark to our neighborhood. We were ok in the crowds downtown, but as we entered our area Judee became very frightened and jumped at every noise. SCARED. I was just uncomfortable.

Today we did go for a long bike ride. Bici feels great and just hums along. We both had a good time climbing a local mountain with views out over Mendoza and the huge snow covered mountain range we will be attacking in a couple of days. Oh how hard it is to just sit around waiting for DHL to deliver our bank cards so we can move on! The tracking number says the package left Indiana on the 12th – today is the 15th. Where are the damn cards?

On a nice note: the wine here is outstanding and cheap! I am learning to really like Malbec, the local varietal more than Cabernet. We are running out of reading material in English and the hostels we have visited have little to offer. Hope the pickings are better in Chile.

Nif took the bus up the pass on Friday the 13th and found the tunnel closed due to snow and rain. She says the trip is beautiful but is very cold at the top. Ever since I was in high school I have dreamed of skiing in Portillo, Chile. We we are going to ride right by the ski resort on the Chilean side of the mountains. I will not ski, but will at least visit!

10-16

Two days ago, on Saturday, we were invited to join Marcella’s family: mother, father and her children for the main afternoon meal. We met her downtown by the Citibank where we are going to use our new Master Card to get a cash advance. No luck since we had no pin number (the card company said we didn’t need one, just present to any bank and get cash). Well, three banks later and still no money! Ok, we still had some cash left and the cash advance rate is 23%!

Marcella caught up with us a little after 1pm and we hailed a taxi out to her parent’s house in the “burbs”. They live in a gated community right out of southern California: a big beautiful home and yard with a small upscale mall just two blocks from the house. Marcella’s parents speak some English. They lived in New York City for over thirty years where he was a chief and she worked in the clothing industry. Marcella’s teenage daughters were fluent in English and shared their recent travel experiences and pictures with us as we sat on the deck over looking the back yard. The afternoon breezes were cool, blue skies, birds in the yard. We could be back in our old yard in Ohio.

About 3pm we were called to the table for the first course: salad of fennel, ravioli with sauce and wine, followed by a meat with sauce, then the sweets or dulces. All of this was homemade and delicious. The meal and socialization lasted 2.5 to 3 hours including the brewing of the national drink “mate” which we were introduced to. Mate is an acquired taste and Judee had about three cups…not coffee or tea, but more of an herbal drink and quite good. Mate cups are sold in all varieties of materials: wood, bone, ceramic, plastic and the straw is metal with a strainer on the end. The Mate can be served hot or cold, but usually hot. Marcella’s mom shared her collection of cups and straws and Judee was gifted a set. The cup was made of the traditional mate material: a very beautiful gourd, with leather strapping surrounding it and the silver straw had the Mendoza seal on a raised button.

Mom finally drove us back to our hostel at about 9pm. What a great day. We felt safe and secure and did our grocery shopping at the mall down the street.

10-17

Art is so angry he can barely look at me! I loaned the camera to our hostel hosts daughter and she deleted all of our 250 Argentina pictures! Thank goodness we sent some to Gary for posting. That is all we have left of Argentina! Well, tomorrow we leave Mendoza and head into Chile. None too soon!

10-18

Surprise! Surprise! As we were loading up to leave the hostel I checked the internet. A message from my son, Chris, that he had gotten a call regarding our lost passports and that the police in Mendoza had them. We went looking for them and found them: both passports, all credit cards and documents. Thieves with a conscience? They were all neatly arranged in Judee’s neck pouch. Good news: we have our California drivers licenses. Well, you can not hold two passports so we will have to use our new one year passports, but we do have our country stamps to savor!

The ride out of Mendoza was pleasant: through tree covered streets and eventually out into scrub country and a turn toward the snow covered peaks in the distance. The road winds slowly up canyons along the Mendoza River to the main water reservoir that feeds the city. We skirt the lake, an aqua blue green color and end at the head waters where we found a campground for 17 pesos, a little over $5US. We are the sole occupants of this large facility with pool (not open). A restaurant is just outside our front gate. The ride today was hard on our unused muscles and butt. Riding 70km/44m two weeks ago was a piece of cake, now quite taxing. We actually had a thunder storm with lightning last night and today as we rode to the lake we had showers. For hours we could see rain up in the mountains and probably some snow. We suppose it will get progressively colder as we climb. Shorts and shirts now, but soon tights, caps and gloves may have to be dug out! Right now the sun is shinning and as I write this at our picnic table, birds are chirping and there is a nice cool breeze through the campground.

1. Checking out of hostel 2. Lost docs 3. Snow covered peaks 4. Agua blue lake

The grounds crew fired up the hot water early for us to shower – hot water to clean the body and soothe the muscles. Earlier, a semi pulling on the road covered us in a thick dust cloud…cough, cough, spit, spit and eyes watering behind the sunglasses. What awful timing. Oh well, we did not need sunscreen for the rest of the day.

10-19

We arose to a crystal blue sky and mild temperatures. The scenery began to become mountains – great uplifts of cathedral like shapes, bubble shaped or molten created outcroppings as we followed the Mendoza River. Our destination was Uspallayta, only about 45km. By 2pm we’d had lunch and settled into the campground. The next stop is 65km UP the canyon and we didn’t feel we would be able to go that much further. Extraordinary winds blew up by 2:30pm and calmed again at 7-8pm. Tomorrow we do not want to be riding in that wind.

Our views from the campground are amazing snow capped mountains. Our campground neighbors are a couple we met in Salta. Déjà vu!

1. Mendoza River 2. Gaucho Gil 3. St. Theresa

Today, as almost every day, we passed shrines to Gauchito Gil, Argentina’s Robin Hood. A truck driver explained to us that people place red prayer flags to ask for favors. There are also shrines to St Theresa, who wandered into the mountains, birthed a child who was found alive several weeks later at the dead woman’s breast. She is also remembered at roadside shrines where people bring her beverages and pile the bottles near.

10-20

The pace seems slower – uphill and into the wind, plus two weeks off the bike and with only 50lbs of pressure in the tires. (It was suggested not to use 70lbs as the pressure could be what is causing the rim failures). Every time we have ascended into the Andes we are awestruck by the beauty and grandeur. Today by the majesty of Aconcagua (6959 meters) the highest peak outside of the Himalayas. The snow is mostly on the peaks, the road dry and melt run-off is coursing down the valleys and gorges to the rushing, muddy Mendoza Rio. We are pretty proud we climbed all day and made 70km!

Mountain Grandeur

10-21

We left the hostel into the bright mountain sunshine at about 8:45. There is a cool breeze; everything is tinged in blue, a reflection of the blue skies off the snow. We climb steeply up the valley to the head wall/terminal moraine and skirt around it up next to the river where there is only room for the river and two narrow lanes. Semis chugging and plugging, belching diesel, inch past us. There is no shoulder, only a vertical rock wall. Yes, it was a hairy time but not as scary as the next tunnel: no lights, long and curvy. We followed the tail lights of the bus way ahead of us. I almost ran into the left wall as I directed the bike toward the weak light at the end!

1. A tinge of blue 2. Welcome to Chile 3. Down hill - FINALLY

 

We are at Las Cuevas in an old building with snow piled up over the window sills. It is almost a ghost town since the rail road stopped in 1980. Good hot coffee and sweets. Only 2km to the tunnel where we arrange for the truck to take us into Chile. Some confusion but we finally produce the right piece of paper and the truck arrives. Bici is loaded and we are chauffeured into the mountains of Chile. Down the mountain to immigration where we get stamped into Chile and take off only to be turned back due to no exit stamp from Argentina or an ok from the Chilean Agriculture people who had to check our bags and confiscated our new small honey bottle. Damn, we just bought it and it was the first small container we have been able to find.

The Portillo ski resort sits on a small lake totally surrounded by huge, craggy, snow covered peaks. From here we drop and I mean drop – the kind where you look DOWN and see the road switch backing straight up filled with semi’s which look like small hot wheel toys below us. A very white knuckle twisty turny drop with the pavement disappearing into dirt and gravel. No guard rails and no shoulder. We bump, skid and hop our way down all the while watching the trucks inch their way up and down. We hit the bottom of the wall and started the 50km down the valley and into the strong headwind where we found we had to peddle hard just to go down! This side of the Andes in wet: lots of waterfalls filling the river next to the highway. All of a sudden the hillsides are covered with yellow and orange poppies blowing in the breeze. Green, green everywhere, plowed fields, bales of hay with a few cactus scattered about. So different from the very dry Argentina side! After 87km, we pulled into Los Andes to hunt for a room. The first place was full, second place recommend by Rough Guide was closed. We ended up at the Hotel Plaza at $45US, so expensive compared to what we have been used to in Argentina!

(continued from above) 4. Portillo 5. Switchbacks 6. Poppies

 

10-22

Our first full day in Chile. Los Andes is about 95km north of Santiago in the center of the country. Again, mountains are all around a very broad agricultural valley fed by the Anconcagua River. Vineyards, orchards and flower fincas abound. It bears a strong resemblance to southern California in the 1950’s. Roses form hedge rows along the highway. At roadside there are poppies, chicory, daisies, mustard, wild cabbage, morning glories, and canna lilies. It looks like the Johnny Apple Seed of flowers has driven by and flung handfuls of seed out the window. Past fields of artichokes and onions, cabbage, hydroponic tomatoes patches we peddle. You get the picture: a very fertile valley with meandering river, little traffic on Sunday morning.

As we approach the coast, fog starts to BLOW inland and the temps drop. Long sleeves go back on. We stop for our morning break at one of the many colorful fruit and produce stands that dot the roadside. Bright orange, yellow, and green bags hang from the stand walls off the local road. We were given permission to ride the toll way, the only road through this area. Trucks and cars speed by as we plow our way into the coastal winds to our lunch stop at what resembles a Chilean version of the Cracker Barrel restaurants in the US. We split a kebob entry, a chicken salad and two coffees for a total cost of 8560 Chilean pesos or about $17US. Chile is much more expensive than the rest of South America, but the food was very good. One waiter wanted to practice his English so spent time at our table discussing all kinds of topics. As usual Bici got lots of attention from the large numbers of wait staff.

1. Fields of mustard 2. Meandering river 3. Roadside stand

Off the toll way and onto local roads for our afternoon trek to the beach. Into the wind and western sun, we complete 100km and when we pass a campground next to a rushing river, we set up camp, take hot showers and head for the restaurant for a beer as we sit in the sun and watch the traffic flow past us.

10-25

We rode the coast road into a fishing village and then southward past gorgeous seaside areas, huge high rises, fancy shops, spas and upscale restaurants of Vina del Mar.

Riding the coast

 

As we approached Valparaiso the traffic grew very heavy as we rolled into the older city with many colorful houses stacked up the hillsides of this UNESCO site. We have spent a couple of blissful days in Valparaiso, in the wonderful Hostel de Bicyclette. We tried to find an inexpensive place to stay and Art negotiated $11US per night with the French owner. Thank goodness, because this city is expensive! Lodging is closer to $30US or more per night and dinners are costing close to $30-$40 for the two of us – and we share one entrée!

Colors of Valparaiso

We met Nif and her husband, David for a couple of evenings. They are leaving for Santiago today and we are going to head south along the coast for a short distance, tomorrow. Our plans are to ride the Lake Country and then the Carretera Austral which is 700kms of dirt before heading by bus south into the park areas where we will ride the remaining 600-1000kms to Ushuaia, Argentina. We have plane tickets to New Zealand for December 25 out of Ushuaia. We think the weather will prove to be much colder and possibly wet south of here, so we want to enjoy the sun for a few days more before taking the bus to the Lake Country of Chile.